The Long Walk

 

The next morning I rode my bike up to breakfast but I left it at the top of the road because the side street is dirt and really rough with lots of pot holes and mud. I thought I would be able to ride it on our expedition that day. But everyone else was walking, so I had to walk.

We walked so far! We walked around the mountain and back for two and a half hours. Oh, my poor painful feet!

The first part along the busy road was horrible, noisy and smelly. Then we got to the nice bit that was blocked off to traffic. It was cool under the giant trees with bright temples along the way. It wasn't very crowded because the festival hadn't officially started yet. 

All the Indian people wore their best clothes and bare feet. A lady gestured at my feet to say I shouldn't be wearing shoes. There was no way I would walk on that dirty road in bare feet, besides my feet were so sore. I wondered what they would do if they cut their foot, they would be sure to get an infection. There is so much rubbish in India, laying around everywhere, it is so dirty.

The lady, her husband and daughter sort of became my walking companions, we would fall behind each other, then catch up and smile at each other again. We got to a blue temple. I wasn't quite sure what to do. I was standing near the exit watching and the lady came up and gave me a blessing, dabbing sacred ash on my forehead. So I took my shoes off and went in. A couple in my group were there. We all put some money in the offering tray and the Brahmin priest gave us a blessing of a necklace made from string with a nut on it, a small packet of sacred ash and dabbed my forehead with ash again. 

We were very popular on our walk. There weren't many white foreigners there. Everyone wanted photographs with us. They were very polite about it, and I suppose when you think about it, I was taking lots of photographs of them too. They loved that.

The orange men are called Sadu, holy men (beggars realy) but they are given rice, fuit and milk by the ashrams

When we eventually got back to the corner, Fran and myself decided to stop walking and get a rickshaw into town. I was so grateful.

I went shopping for some presents and clothes I needed to wear. I eventually found what I wanted, some embroidered tops and Indian pants in a shop where I was served by a lovely (and handsome) young man from Kashmir. We had chai tea had a chat. He was talking about opening his own shop. I told him I was sure he would. And since then he has! He gave me a Ganesha statue as a gift. Pujan thought he must have wanted to marry me. But it was just a kind gesture. (N.B. Actually we are still friends years later, I helped him as best I could to get through Covid and he managed to keep his new shop open.)

Our group met up again at a restaurant called the Dreaming Tree for dinner. 

The Great Deepam Festival at Arunachala 2019

 

4th December - 12th December 2019

The city of Tiruvannamalai has grown up around a Holy Mountain called Aranachala where, in ledgend, Shiva manifested as a collumn of fire to eliminate the ego. The ancient Arunachalesvara Temple is dedicated to Shiva and specifically to the element of fire, or the God Agni. The history of the temple dated back 1000 years. The juge masonry pylons were built in the 9th Century. The temple has had gifts added to it by ruling dynasties of later centuries.

My room in Tiruvannamalai had a small window with a rooster in the field outside and large ants crawling on the floor, I left them alone and they left me alone. The mattress was big & comfortable and they fixed the dribbling faucet in my shower before it fell off.  In Auroville I had bought essential oils and a burner, the scent of geranium and cinnamon still transports me there. I perched my little kettle on a rather precarious stack of boxes and books so the cord could reach the plug to make my essential coffee. I made it quite comfortable, decorated with scarves and the ganesh statues that appeared. The garden was pleasant and green and there was a yoga room on the top floor with a fantastic view of the mountain.

There was a great vegan cafe, Da Mantra, up the road, we could go to anytime to enjoy good fresh drinks and food in a relaxing open-air setting with wifi. We ate there a lot, for breakfast, some lunches and dinners.

We were staying in a town near the ashram of Ramana Maharshi, an Indian sage who became an enlightened being at a very young age and sat in a cave for all of his life. Many thousands of followers sought his teachings and millions still flock to his ashram every year.​ We climbed up the hill to visit his cave. It was pretty cool. 

We were very impressed by an industrious man who made us beautiful, freshly squeezed orange juice half way up our climb to Sri Ramana Maharishi's cave. He had carried a whole box of oranges and all his equipment all the way up the winding stone pathway - including a sling-shot to keep the monkeys away. He deserved a good tip.

There are other people with stalls along the path selling statues. They all say they made them. But I think they were lying. They pretend to be chiselling at stone making statues but all their statues are the same. I still brought one, of Patanjali (the sage the yoga sutras are attributed to) at the top of the trek to commemorate my climb. It's not really basalt, it's just painted, a little piece chipped off his nose, I'll dab a bit of black paint on it.

Pujan said Arunachala has a very high spiritual energy. A whole lot of stuff manifested that I had to deal with. It wasn't very pleasant, but you have to deal with stuff if you want to over come vrittis.

I had a terrible pain in my foot that lasted the next 3 years. Hopefully I have just had it fixed through a series of torture sessions at the physiotherapist.

I went into town in a rickshaw to get some better walking shoes. It was mad in the city! It was packed with people, it was raining and it was authentic. Most of the million people who were pouring into the city had bare feet. I have no idea where they all slept. They just kept coming, hundreds and thousands of them, for days and days and days. A huge, dark ocean of people walking, all in the same direction; clockwise around the mountain.

 

 

I'm Back!

I lost my account and I just found my way back in! Hooray! 

I've been following my inner self and it guided me to this most beautiful, calm and quiet place in the world to live. I think I arrived in Paradise. 

I'm going to upload my travels since Matrimandir and I'm going to share all my research on the Chakras, as I had to close my website I know the world is missing the research.

I'll do one each day, starting tomorrow. Leave comments if you wish, it's nice to be encouraged.

Matrimandir

It was a great morning weather-wise for Matrimandir, the golden dome; they have to close it if it rains because there is a hole in the roof that light comes through. The light shines down on a huge crystal ball and lights up the whole big white room.

It is incredible in the room. If a cloud passes over, the crystal ball goes sort of dark blue and looks like it fills with mist. When the cloud passes over, the room lights up again with white or sometimes orange light. The colour of the light is constantly changing. Sometimes the top of the crystal ball looked like a crescent moon studded with 3 points of light that shone like stars. Around the base it reflected stylised lotus leaves. Around the center it reflected the circle of mediators.

But something happened while I was meditating. Everything and everyone, all vanished away. There was only the crystal ball and the light.

The room is huge, it is like sitting inside a ball. The round roof is supported by 12 tall, white, cylindrical columns. The whole room is pure white. There are meditation cushions in a huge circle around the outside of the 12 columns.

It's a whole journey to get to the meditation room.  The outside of the dome is made from golden discs that reflect the sun. Under the dome is a fountain representing a lotus flower with another (much smaller) crystal ball in the center.

Going inside the golden, sacred geometrical ball is sort of like going inside star trek. It is by far the most amazing structure I have ever seen or been in.

When we arrived, we saw a short movie about the concept of Auroville. It is a community with the pupose to find ultimate universal consciousness. 

We were taken in little buses to the dome where the guide gave us a talk. From then on the whole experience is in silence. 

We walked through the geometric lawns and gardens, through the arena where Auroville was inaugurated in 1968. We walked around the dome, then under the dome to sit around the fountain for a short while. The fountain is beautiful white marble representing petals of a lotus.

When we went inside we had to put on white socks so no red dirt would soil the complete whiteness of the interior. We walked up a white carpeted spiral walkway and through a door into the most incredible meditation room ever constructed.

I never had a meditation experience like it (well once before at Ayres rock.)

All the people in the room vanished to me. All I could see was nothing. Only my focus on three bright points of light like stars that were reflecting universal consciouness from the crystal ball. It was hard, but I stayed so focused. There was complete emptiness of nothing, not even creation, not even the universal oneness or emptiness. Just total nothing at all.

I have weird short-sighted eyes that don't focus properly so light and stars actually do look like stars, with rays of light shining out from a center. I was so focused the rays stayed still. They had rainbows in them and I could even see the tiny point in the middle of the light was totally black.

I feel like I'm freed.

It was superb.

They flash lights on twice after 15 minutes, it was time to leave. 

Outside we sat for a while under a huge Bunyan tree.

Then we went back to the visitors center and I had a delicious double layer chocolate cake and masala chai ☕🍰.

It is a process to get into the Matrimandir. You have to go to the visitors center, in person to purchase a ticket a few days before your visit, they are not open on a Tuesday.  It is not a tourist attraction, it is for serious spiritual concentration. It is a good idea to go early in the morning or there will be a long queue. Before you can purchase the ticket you have to watch a 5 minute film about Auroville. It is very interesting. Also you need ID to get a ticket.

If you have visited Matrimandir once, you don't have to go through the booking process again, you can just ring them up on the number they  give you or email them.

It was really WOW!

you are not allowed to take bags or phones or photos with you. This is a photo after the experience. You can just see the Matrimandir in the background and my earrings that are causing a great sensation!

Mountain of the Lychees

 

We went on a long excusion in a mini van to Kulen Mountain or Mountain of the Lychees, to see the Sleeping Buddha, Kulen waterfall, and Kebal Spean. Kebal Spean is a trek to a sacred stream with ancient rock carvings. I hadn't been there before and didn't know it was 1500m up a mountain side. I was so proud of the girls, it certainly wasn't easy, but they did it.

We drove through the country side and they saw how the Cambodian people live, mostly in wooden houses on stilts. I think the stilts are to keep the houses cool and it also provides an undercover, outdoor room. I was quite suprised at the advancement in just one year from houses that looked like they were about to fall down to sturdy wooden houses.

The sleeping Buddha is a giant golden carving in the top of a huge rock at a place in the middle of the jungle where the Khmer Kingdom began.

Our guide asked me if it was the same as before. There weren't so many begging ladies or people selling healing herbs on the way up the stairs. But the experience was similar... I didn't feel anything much as I climbed the steep staicase up the side of the huge rock. I filed around the Buddha, there is a relic of a piece of his bone there. As I come down the other side and reach the bottom I start to feel the magic of the place and the hair on my arms stands up on end.

We come down the mountain in the van and have a look at the river of 1000 lingas, where the water flows over the carvings and then on to the rice paddy's to fertilize the crops.

Then up the hill to the waterfall. I'm starving. We have the birthday cake with us for morning tea. Unfortunately now is when we discover it has melted and is being devoured by ants.

Bunna saved the day. When we went for a swim in the waterfall, he went and bought us beautiful fresh pineapple. It was just what we needed to revive us. Waterfall and pineapple. What more could you need to recharge energy in a hot tropical jungle.

Little fish nibbled us if we stood still in the big pool of water that the huge waterfall crashes into from above.

We drove down from the mountain. There are fabulous scenic views. Lunch was actually fairly awful, all the lunch places were fairly awful but dinners were delicious which made up for it.

After lunch was the mammoth trek. The forest we walked through held a magical essence. It was so still and calm with flocks of butterflies in different colour groups fluttering around.

We scaled right up to the top where there are carvings in the river of lingas and the hindu gods, Vishnu, Brahma and Lakshmi. We saw an orange crab in the water.

A storm was brewing. We could hear rumbling thunder as we started to make our way back down. We descended a flight of steps to where the water falls from the stream above. The water is sacred and washes away sins. I balanced carefully and did Shiva - dancers pose under the cascade of water.

The descent was quite precarious. It was very steep and some of the stepping stones were slippery with sand. 

Our day wasn't over yet. We needed to get back to the hotel, shower and change to be ready to go out for a show. We went to a shadow puppet theater. It was close by. 

I had always wanted to go to a shadow puppet show. My uncle had brought some back for us when we weee children and we used to put up a sheet with a light behind it and put on shows in the lounge room. At last my wish was fulfilled.

It was a pretty wild and crazy show put on by youth. The theatre was called Bambu Stage. It was on the site of a former restaurant and after the show I had arranged for them to prepare a dinner for us. The table was all laid out with so many dishes. It was fabulous.

What a big day.

Arrival in Siem Reap

We had a good flight, 3 seats each up in the quiet zone of Airasia.

A van from the hotel was there to pick us up. Bunna came to greet us too, I gave him a big hug, it was so nice to see him again.

We had fresh breakfast by the pool at the Sonalong Boutique Village and then went upstairs, amongst the tree tops, to our rooms.

After we settled in, we had a swim while one of the girls went with Bunna to meet her friend who was flying in from Norway to join the tour. What a pleasure it was to have her on our journey, she was so much fun.

I didn't have too much planned for the first day, not after the long flight. We were supposed to go and get our temple pass and watch the sunset but a huge storm blew up with thunder & lightening so we didn't do that. We went for a massage instead.

It was teaming with rain. Bunna and his friend, our other tuktuk driver came to pick us up. I put the other 3 girls in Bunna's tuktuk because I knew what a safe driver he was and I went on a crazy drive through the pouring rain in the other. We thought we were going to tip out a few times, I had to be pulled back in.

We eventually all arrived in one piece at Lemongrass Garden Massage and Spa. All the girls were very pleased with their treatments, a little stronger than what they are used to receiving in Australia. We went back a second time during our stay.

For dinner I had made a booking up the road for a 7 course dinner at a fine dinning restaurant. I'd tried to explain to them  in Australia about this fabulous restaurant I had found, but they didn't get why I was so excited till we walked in and saw the table set with polished silverware and gleaming wine glasses. Then the exquisite food arrived course by course, so delicious and beautifully presented.

It was the lady from Norway's birthday feast. I ordered a birthday cake which unfortunately we were too full to eat and it ended up a squashed and melted mess covered in ants when we went to visit Mt Kulen Waterfall. Anyway, it was a nice thought and the dinner was scrumptious (I hope I haven't used up all my words for delicious dinners as we had many)

Because of the mud from the storm we didn't want to walk back and we all squashed together into one tuktuk - I don't know how & the little bike pulling us only just made it. It all added to the merriment.

Near the end of dinner, someone made a squeeky noise on her chair that sounded like a fart and we all started giggling. Then we couldn't stop. We were all so tired we were nearly delirious and stuffed with fabulous food and so happy at the start of our big adventure that we just couldn't stop lauging at the farting noise. We laughed till our bellies hurt and were still laughing when arrived back at the hotel to try and sleep.

Temples In The Jungle

For the first full day in Siem Reap I obviously wanted to take the girls to see the temples in the jungle as that was why I had brought them.

The energy from the trees in the jungle is powerful, and I can feel the energy that pulsates from those ancient temples. I love it so much. It fills me up and restores me.

Early in the morning we did yoga in the garden.

After breakfast we went to where you buy the temple pass. It is an individual pass that requires a photo.

I thought the girls were right behind me when I got to the counter but no, they were shopping. We hadn't even got to a market yet!

It is stressful being a tour guide, watching out for everyone and keeping them together as a group. I had to synchronize timing for food and toilet stops. I hope the girls had lovely relaxing holiday, but for me it was exhausting. I was always working and organizing and checking. And with so much on my mind it made it difficult to sleep so I survived on only a few hours a night, without the opportunity for an afternoon nap which is vital for me.

Anyway I went back and got them and they had beautiful smiling photos taken for the 3 day pass for the temples. Wherever we went, the guards always said we are so smiling and happy. It made them smile and feel happy.

That was one of my intentions in coming here - to make the people happy. I felt that last time they were sad and didn't understand what a beautiful place they live in. They have suffered so much under the reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge and the bombing of the Vietnam war. It felt like they were much happier this time.

Our first temple was Preah Kahn with a double tier temple that is most likely where the dancers danced. I explained that a linga is a phallic symbol and the square it is in is a yoni. Water flows around it and out a spout for fertility. There are 1000's in the rivers for fertility for the rice crops.

The police guards like to nab the tourists and take photos for a tip. It's good, because they know the best spots for you stand for a good photo.

The next stop was the island temple across the long bridge. Last time I walked across, it was so hot and I was so tired and I got all the way across to see a dirty pond that was once a beautiful fountain and an offering cave and mosquitos.

I told them it was one thousand miles across the bridge & as I had already been I wasn't going again. When they asked how long it took to walk the 1000 miles and I said 5 minutes, they rolled their eyes at me. I told them that it was not very spectacular but in the big scheme of Ankor Wat it held great significance. They enjoyed the walk across the moat I think.

I stayed behind and read about it in the book. When it was made, it was encrusted in gold a jewels. It was the sacred island of healing where they grew magic herbs and people came to be cured and absolved of their sins.

I swapped around tuktuks as we went around so I could share what knowledge I have about the Ancient Angkor Kingdom and King Javaraman VII who built many of the temples.

We had an average lunch then went to visit one of my favorite temples, Pre Rup. I made them close their eyes and took them through the old front entrance, as the main entrance now is the back. There is a huge fig tree growing on top of the huge carved head of the gate keeper - the roots look like dread locks growing around the benevolent face of Ankoloshvara.

I told them it was a nice place to do some shopping in the little village. They got some nice tops and skirts.
I bought some postcards from the young girl, I remember her, then the other lady was upset because I didn't buy hers but I bought a keyring from her with nail clippers with Angkor Wat.

It was so fun there. There was a little naked baby playing with a mud puddle. He was so happy, he just couldn't stop smiling.  He made a special friend with our lady from Norway.

We asked the children if they had been to school. It was funny, the whole conversation went around in a circle about morning school and afternoon school and tomorrow there would be no school because it's Sunday except that tomorrow would be Saturday.

When we were leaving, the little girl wanted me to buy more things, I said she should be happy as I brought these people there to buy lots of things. I said she will never be happy while she wants more. I told her the way to be happy is to be content with what she has. She said "thank you." I had thought about that little girl a lot in the past year and how I might be able to help her. I will be interested to see her again.

Our last temple of the day was The Tomb raider temple. It was disappointing for me, last year I only had to share it with a few other people and I could climb high walls and sit up with the trees and meditate. This time I had to share it with hordes of Chinese bus tourists and workmen who were doing massive reconstruction of the temple. We had to follow a wooden walkway.

That was enough temples for the day, we went back to Sonalong Hotel and swam and relaxed.

We had cocktails and dinner at the hotel. The cocktails were very nice there. But I had explained that if they chose to have a drink it would not be possible to meditate in the evenings. Cocktail hour wasnt what I had envisaged as it was planned as a spiritual tour, but it was fun.